If your camellia has just finished flowering, you might be tempted to leave it alone until next year – resist that urge.
Mid-May is actually one of the most important times in the camellia calendar. The buds forming right now are next spring's display, and what happens over the next few weeks will determine whether that display is worth having. A little attention now goes a long way, neglect it and you'll be wondering next spring why the flowers never materialised.
Here's what two horticulture experts say you should be doing right now.
Prune promptly, but only if you need to
Pruning is the most time-sensitive job after flowering. Miss the window and you risk removing next year's buds before they've had a chance to form. RHS guidance recommends pruning camellias immediately after flowering, while the plant still has the full growing season ahead of it.
"If the plant is healthy and hasn't outgrown its allotted space, you may not need to prune it at all," says Nicky Buley, a horticulture tutor at FindTutors who manages two community gardening projects in London and is trained to RHS Level 2. "However, a light prune – removing any dead, diseased or damaged wood – will improve the health of the plant."
If an older shrub has become leggy or oversized, harder renovation pruning is best left until next March. "It gives the plant the whole growing season to recover and put on new growth," says Louise Fitzpatrick, a horticulture tutor at FindTutors and RBGE graduate with Distinction in Horticulture with Plantsmanship. Bear in mind it can take several years for flowering to fully recover afterwards.
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Water consistently through summer
This is the part many gardeners underestimate. While the flowers may be gone, summer is when camellias begin developing the buds that will open next autumn and winter. Let the soil dry out repeatedly and the plant may simply abandon those buds altogether.
RHS guidance advises keeping the soil consistently moist through summer, particularly during dry spells.
Louise puts it plainly: "A lack of water or inconsistent watering directly reduces the quality and quantity of next year's display."
The type of water matters too. In hard water areas, repeated use of tap water can gradually raise soil alkalinity – which is bad news for acid-loving camellias. Both experts recommend using rainwater where possible.
Mulch around the base
Once flowering finishes, mulching earns its keep. A thick layer around the base helps lock in soil moisture during warmer months while keeping roots cooler during heatwaves.
Nicky recommends ericaceous compost, bark chips or pine needles. "A mulch of ericaceous compost will provide the camellia with a steady supply of nutrients over the next few months, ensuring it stays glossy and green for the rest of the growing season," she says.
Coffee grounds can help too, but don't overdo it. Louise advises using them sparingly and composting them first if possible. Too much fresh coffee spread thickly around the base can compact the soil and shift the pH too quickly.
Feed in spring, then stop by July
Camellias are surprisingly easy to overfeed. RHS advice recommends using a fertiliser formulated for ericaceous plants in spring and early summer only. Feed too late into the season and you risk triggering bud drop instead of better flowering.
"Excessive feeding, or feeding too late in the season, can cause bud drop," says Nicky.
And keep lime well away from them. Camellias dislike alkaline conditions and will show signs of stress quickly, through yellowing leaves and weak growth.
Does deadheading actually help?
Not really – at least not in the way many gardeners assume. Deadheading camellias is mostly about appearance. The spent flowers tend to turn brown and cling to the plant in a fairly miserable-looking way.
"Camellias are deadheaded because the blooms tend to turn brown and look unsightly," says Nicky. "However, unlike some other plants such as daffodils, removing the flowers will not significantly improve the chances of them flowering well the following year."
Louise adds that removing old blooms can still help reduce pest and disease issues. So it's worth doing – just don't expect it to produce more flowers next season.
Watch for pests and problems
After the main jobs are done, it's worth giving the plant a closer look. Louise recommends checking underneath leaves for scale insects and paying attention to yellowing foliage, which is often a sign the soil has become too alkaline.
Pot-grown camellias need extra vigilance. Vine weevil grubs can destroy the roots below the surface long before the plant shows any visible decline.
Protection in cold weather
A bad frost can undo months of careful aftercare. RHS guidance warns that cold snaps can cause buds to brown and drop before opening, particularly on exposed plants. Horticultural fleece can help protect more sensitive varieties during severe weather.
Positioning also matters more than many people realise. Louise recommends avoiding east-facing spots, where early morning sun rapidly thaws frozen buds and can damage flowers before they've had a chance to open properly.
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