The phrase "a taste of history" is often bandied around. But country house hotel Cliveden in Berkshire has taken the saying to heart, and created a new afternoon tea menu featuring historical treats enjoyed there by famous visitors over the years – from Queen Victoria to Charlie Chaplin.
Cliveden is a stately home turned five-star hotel, famous for sparking the Profumo affair and, in more recent times, hosting Meghan Markle before her wedding to Prince Harry in 2018.
Over the years, as both a stately home and hotel, it's played host to notable guests from Winston Churchill to The Beatles – and its new afternoon tea menu (from £60) sees executive chef Chris Hannon delve into the archives to recreate a selection of their favourite dishes.
Here at Country Living we love a historical bake; our new series Secret British Bakes sees Karen Burns-Booth share recipes for traditional and often forgotten delicacies including Fat Rascals and Welsh Crempogs.
So when we heard about an afternoon tea that combines history, tasty treats and stunning scenery, we had to try it for ourselves...
The venue
It's fair to say that nothing about Cliveden is understated. The gravel driveway up to the front door seems to stretch on forever, and provides ample opportunity to take in the grand surroundings – including a Carrara-marble fountain and gilded clock tower both used as inspiration for Disney's 2015 remake of Cinderella.
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From the minute you arrive you'll feel like royalty as you're ushered into the opulent, wood-paneled lounge area.
Afternoon tea is served in the nearby dining room, which boasts far-reaching views over the formal gardens and down to the River Thames – there's no finer spot to sip a glass of champagne. If you have the energy after tea, there are 376-acres of manicured gardens and rolling parkland to explore – including a maze.
Queen Victoria and Prince Albert were regular visitors to Cliveden and frequently took afternoon tea at Spring Cottage, the estate's riverside folly a short downhill walk from the main house. She even had a special "pushing stick" created – currently on display in one of the hotel's ground floor corridors – which staff used to push her back up the hill after any overindulgences at tea time.
And after enjoying the full delicacies of Cliveden's afternoon tea and taking the steps back up from the riverside, I could understand the appeal of said stick...
The menu
"Some dishes required adapting and modernising, especially the puddings, which were often very heavy; traditionally they used beef fat and loads of sugar in puddings, which can make them too stodgy. We made the original recipe first, then experimented with small tweaks to bring it up to modern tastes – for example, using less fat if it was too stodgy, or less protein if it felt heavy. It was a balancing act and we always wanted to pay respect to the old recipes."
Alongside the customary finger sandwiches and scones – all fresh and delicious – the afternoon tea menu features plenty of savoury nibbles, which are a welcome addition and foil to the sweetness. Highlights included a game sausage roll derived from the Astor family cookbook (residents of the house until 1966), and a mini Yorkshire pudding filled with silky smooth roast beef slices – a favourite of regular guest Sir Winston Churchill.
The star of the show, however, is Queen Victoria's own Victoria sponge cake recipe, sourced from historic recipe books to recreate the one she herself would have enjoyed on her many visits to Cliveden.
Unlike some of the cakes, which were on the richer, stickier side, this slice was pleasingly light and refreshing. The airy sponge was sandwiched with just the right amount of cream and sweet, tangy jam, and finished to perfection with juicy fresh strawberries.
We can confirm that this culinary classic has aged beautifully – it's a classic for a reason. Cliveden's traditional rendition was moist and sweet without being sickly, with more of a creaminess to the texture than some more fluffy modern recipes. The presentation was superb too – as you would expect – with perfectly slim layers and a lavish curl of edible gold leaf on top.
Eating this historical delicacy in the same venue its namesake enjoyed it, with impeccable silver service, fine bone china and an opulently traditional setting, is arguably the closest you can get to being Queen Victoria herself.
I certainly felt decidedly more aristocratic than usual throughout my experience at Cliveden, and the worries of modern life seemed to melt away.
So if you're looking to treat someone like – literal – royalty, it's well worth booking in to this opulent and fascinating dining experience. Pushing stick not included...
24 unmissable Cotswolds hotels – from luxury spas to dog-friendly hideaways
Whatley Manor, Wiltshire
This luxurious Wiltshire stay is near the market town of Malmesbury, with a Michelin-starred restaurant, a superlative spa and immaculate gardens that include terraces, lawns and an organic kitchen plot. The country-house hotel is just a short drive away from Bath.
At Whatley Manor’s Aquarias Spa, book a treatment, then, if the weather’s fine, relax on one of the sunloungers beside the outdoor pool. If it’s a little nippy, simply retreat indoors to one of the heated stone recliners instead.
Chef Ricki Weston's tasting menu is one not to be missed, with inventive dishes using local produce – including lots plucked straight from the kitchen garden and hotel grounds (like the honey tart). British classics get a creative twist with a zero-waste ethos shining throughout – and there's even a course where you get a front row seat to watch the chefs busy at work.
The Lygon Arms, Worcestershire
Famous former guests to have called in to this Worcestershire coaching inn include Charles I, Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton – and its sister property Cliveden House in Berkshire has similarly starry credentials.
The Lygon Arms is in the village of Broadway, which is regarded as one of the region’s prettiest (and there’s certainly some competition in these parts). More modern additions to the historic building include a spa, but you’ll still be able to enjoy the heritage beside a log fire in one of the atmospheric, creaky lounges and at the vaulted restaurant, which has star chef James Martin at the helm. The hotel is very dog-friendly, with a wash station in the courtyard and lots of treats for pets.
Buckland Manor, Worcestershire
This country-house hotel is near the village church in Buckland, with 10 acres of land to stroll around. Guests can enjoy an aperitif beside the fireplace in the lounge, before a dinner of locally sourced ingredients, much of which come from the Vale of Evesham – if you haven’t over-indulged during afternoon tea, that is.
Buckland Manor is a great choice for families, who can play tennis, boules and croquet in the grounds, order picnic hampers or set off for nearby Birdland, where you can spot 130 species. Conveniently for anyone arriving from London Paddington, the manor is only 12 miles away from the rail station in Moreton-in-Marsh.
The Slaughters Manor House, Gloucestershire
A little more modern than your average Cotswolds retreat, the stylish Slaughters Manor House is in the village of Lower Slaughter in Gloucestershire. The decor inside this 17th-century retreat spans both old and new: there are corniced ceilings, tan Chesterfields and four-poster beds, alongside bright pink armchairs and white wingbacks.
Order a drink at the marble-topped bar, enjoy the billiards room, or spend rainy days playing board games in the cosy snug. And for when the weather’s fine, there are five acres of landscaped gardens featuring redwoods and horse chestnuts, plus a tennis court and croquet lawn.
Thyme, Gloucestershire
If you’re looking for the dream Cotswolds stay, you’ve found it in Thyme, a collection of 17th-century, honey-coloured cottages set across the sprawling Southrop Manor estate in Gloucestershire. Everything you could hope for is present and correct, from wood-burning stoves, beamed ceilings and roll-top bath tubs, to canopied beds, a cookery school and a superb spa.
At the latter, there’s a veranda in the garden to relax in after your treatment, as well as the Botanical Bothy, a space where it’s impossible not to feel calm.
The Greenway Hotel and Spa, Gloucestershire
This spa hotel is between the town of Cheltenham and the city of Gloucester in Gloucestershire. The ivy-covered Elizabethan manor now has a hydrotherapy pool, outdoor hot tub and nail bar where you can sip champagne during manicures. The Greenway Hotel's original English country charm still prevails, though, with open fires, wooden floors and cosy interiors to enjoy. Further relaxation comes courtesy of the views over the rolling Cotswold hills.
The estate covers eight acres – and from the oak-panelled Garden Room Restaurant, you’ll be able to admire the sunken garden and ornate lily pond.
Dormy House Hotel, Cotswolds
Dormy House Hotel is situated just outside the chocolate-box village of Broadway and feels more like visiting someone's, albeit extremely grand, Cotswolds manor. Its appeal lies in its cosy corners, elegant indoor/outdoor spaces - not to mention its world-class Scandi-style spa.
Enjoy outdoor heated areas with twinkling lights and an al fresco whirlpool in the colder months, or recline on one of the outdoor loungers and relax in Dormy's manicured gardens in summer.
The Lion Inn, Gloucestershire
A restaurant with rooms in the Cotswolds, the Lion Inn has a heritage spanning half a millennia. The 500-year-old inn is in the Gloucestershire town of Winchcombe, with eight guestrooms and various places to enjoy its locally sourced, seasonal and regularly changing menus.
It has a restaurant, bar, garden and snug, so you can be sure that there’s a dining space to suit whatever you’re celebrating. In the summer though, it will be hard to beat sitting in the garden, enjoying the sunshine outside amid the lavender.
Woolley Grange, Wiltshire
The family-friendly Woolley Grange in Wiltshire is set within a 17th-century Jacobean manor, with extensive gardens and lots of space for children to enjoy. It's a wholesome kind of stay, especially for little ones – the activities on offer for younger guests include picking fruit in the garden, collecting eggs from the chickens, children's afternoon teas and playing in the kids’ club.
The 14 acres feature ancient trees and a walled garden, and there are special suites for glamping in the grounds. The estate is in Bradford-on-Avon and just outside of Bath, making it perfect for day trips.
The Frogmill, Gloucestershire
Close to the Regency town of Cheltenham, the Frogmill is a classic Cotswolds pub with a seasonal menu, an extensive selection of tipples to try and a fire-pit in the garden helping to improve alfresco drinking conditions should the weather not be playing ball. Fortunately for those who have over-indulged (or spent a little too long getting competitive while playing games in the snug), there are 28 rooms to stopover in, with hearty breakfasts helping to rouse you come morning.
The 16th-century inn was renovated a few years ago, but all of its original charms (and beamed ceilings) thankfully remain intact.
Cowley Manor Experimental
Cowley Manor Experimental offers a different take on a grand Cotswolds country house hotel, featuring Parisian-style interiors housed in a 17th-century mansion, a creative approach to dining, and a high-concept spa; the perfect blend of old-world charm and modern innovation.
This stunning Cotswold hotel is surrounded by 55 acres of parkland to explore, featuring woods, wildflower meadows, natural springs and lakes.
De Vere Cotswold Water Park, Gloucestershire
With no fewer than 152 lakes on its doorstep, De Vere Cotswold Water Park in Gloucestershire is the perfect Cotswold hotel for anyone hoping to enjoy the great outdoors – and with a landscape as famously beautiful as this one, you'd be foolish not to. Helpfully, there are Hunter wellies on hand to borrow, so even the weather won’t be able to stop you.
Once you’ve worked up an appetite, dine at the Old Boathouse or the hotel’s brasserie. And if you've really maxed out the step count, you can soothe sore limbs at the spa’s hydrotherapy pool. Pets can join the fun, too.
Cotswold House Hotel & Spa, Gloucestershire
In the charming market town of Chipping Campden, Cotswold House Hotel is set within a Grade II-listed Regency townhouse, with a spa in the former stable. Many of the rooms – which have features such as roll-top baths and original beams – overlook the rolling Cotswold countryside, and others have views of the town’s honey-hued buildings.
Room option include hot-tub suites with private terraces for midnight dips, some of which are set across two floors. At the Bistro on the Square, you can enjoy everything from coffees to cocktails, and there are more than 70 types of gin stocked for the perfect G&T.
Ellenborough Park, Gloucestershire
Calling all horse-racing fans, this is the Cotswolds hotel for you. Ellenborough Park is a stately stay opposite Cheltenham Racecourse, with a panelled Great Hall and equally opulent bedrooms.
The 15th-century manor sits on 90 acres of parkland – borrow a pair of Dubarry boots and a waxed jacket, before setting off on one of the trails for a bracing walk. Waiting for you on your return is the Horse Box brasserie, with tartan floors and plenty of tweed accents. And there’s an outdoor pool for guests to enjoy when the weather allows.
The Swan Hotel, Bidbury
The Cotswolds village of Bidbury is known as one of the prettiest in the area, and the Swan's ivy-clad facade, perched on the banks of the River Coln, reflects this beautifully. The back garden is truly postcard-perfect in summertime, its striped deck chairs looking out onto the winding river from a tranquil green lawn.
Guests at The Swan Hotel are in a prime position for exploring the area's most popular sights, including Arlington Row, Bibury Trout Farm and the footbridge.
Wild Thyme & Honey, Gloucestershire
This Cotswolds hotel is just outside of Cirencester, in the Gloucestershire village of Ampney Crucis. At Wild Thyme & Honey’s heart is a 16th-century pub, the Crown at Ampney Brook (named for the stream of water gently trickling by), now with several bedrooms attached, making it the perfect cosy base for exploring this most photogenic part of Britain. And there are Hunter wellies to borrow should you find yourself unequipped for the elements.
Some of the rooms feature freestanding bath tubs beside the bed, and there are certain design elements that wouldn’t look out of place in a Manhattan loft, such as exposed brickwork and hanging lamps suspended above either side of the beds.
The Harcourt Arms, Witney
For those looking for a quintessential pub with rooms, The Harcourt Arms in Witney offers a cosy setup that will delight fans of fine dining. It's the perfect place to enjoy a carefully crafted cocktail by the open fire, or on the sun-drenched terrace in the summer months.
The 17th-century pub is situated in the heart of the charming Oxfordshire village of Stanton Harcourt, an idylic place to wander around in the afternoon.
The Pig in the Cotswolds, Gloucestershire
This summer, the Cotswolds gets its very own Pig, with the arrival of the Pig in the Cotswolds just outside of Cirencester. The site it is set to occupy was until recently the acclaimed Barnsley House, long considered one of the best luxury hotels in the Cotswolds. As the name suggests, the hotel will be set across the main house, which dates back to the 17th century, and the traditional village pub next door.
As befits the former home of the accomplished gardener Rosemary Verey, the grounds at the honey-hued manor are beautiful – and extensive. They feature an ornamental fruit and vegetable garden, statues by Simon Verity and the famous Laburnum Walk, with a meadow at the edge.
The spa will remain intact, and you can also expect some of the delicious locally sourced dining that the brand is famous for. The centre of Cirencester is just four miles away, so it is the perfect base for a town and country break.
The Lakes by Yoo, Gloucestershire
Surround yourself with some of the scenic countryside that the Cotswolds is famous for with a trip to the Lakes by Yoo, which sits on a vast estate spanning 850 acres of lakes, meadows and woodlands. Guests can choose between self-catering accommodation options such as cabins by the water’s edge and apartments. Once you’ve enjoyed the great outdoors (and all of the activities on offer, ranging from paddle-boarding to zip-lining), head to the impressive spa for treatments by leading brands such as Dr Barbara Sturm, Wildsmith Skin and Cosmoss by Kate Moss.
Nearby is the town of Lechlade, which is a charming place for a stroll – regardless of the time of year, you’ll be able to pick up some beautiful Christmas baubles from the much-loved Cotswold Christmas Shop on the high street. You’ll also be able to visit Kelmscott Manor, which was once the summer home of William Morris – the Grade I-listed farmhouse, on the banks of the River Thames, was built some time around 1600.
Noel Arms, Gloucestershire
If you prefer hotels that are on the traditional side, make the Noel Arms in the idyllic town of Chipping Campden your next Cotswolds stay. This inn is located on the Cotswold Way, so it’s the perfect base for walkers hoping to explore the photogenic region on foot; and there are dog-friendly rooms ready for if you’re planning to bring your pet along. Awaiting you on your return from a scenic stroll is a hearty tea by the fireplace in the lounge.
The inn is right on the high street, close to its independent shops and ancient buildings. Rumour has it that Charles II sought refuge here after his defeat at the Battle of Worcester in 1651.
The Fish Hotel, Worcestershire
The vast estate that the Fish Hotel sits on is in Worcestershire, close to the classic Cotswolds village of Broadway, famous for its golden buildings, charming restaurants and shops. The 500-acre Farncombe Estate is also home to two other hotels, Foxhill Manor and Dormy House. At the hillside Fish, there are 66 rooms and suites, some of which are treehouses and huts, ideal for anyone in search of quirky accommodation in the Cotswolds.
During your stay, you’ll be able to admire the scenic surroundings, with gorgeous views out across the Cotswolds on offer from various vantage points. After a day out exploring this beautiful part of Britain, head to one of the cosy lounges for a pre-dinner drink, and then enjoy a seafood supper at the aptly named Hook.
Lords of the Manor, Gloucestershire
As the name suggests, this Cotswolds country house hotel is rather regal, with a 3AA Rosette restaurant, picturesque lawns and plenty of antiques, along with cosy nooks to sequester and fireplaces to warm up beside.
The 17th-century manor is on the edge of the scenic village of Upper Slaughter on the River Eye, and within a short drive of Cheltenham – guests will also be able to wander the mile or so down to Lower Slaughter, another equally attractive hamlet. The privately owned Lords of the Manor dates back to around 1649, and has been a hotel since 1972.
No. 131 The Promenade, Gloucestershire
There are lots of charming rural hotels in the Cotswolds, but if you want something a little more urban (relatively speaking), check into No. 131 The Promenade in the beautiful Gloucestershire spa town of Cheltenham, most known for its racecourse and Regency buildings. Within a 30-minute walk of the hotel are the Pump Rooms, Pittville Park and the famous racecourse.
This boutique hotel is located near the Imperial Gardens, occupying various Georgian townhouses. The stylish interiors feature wood-panelling, gilded ceilings and freestanding copper bath tubs. Alongside the often lively Gin & Juice, the hotel is home to Yoku, a Japanese restaurant with a cocktail bar.
Artist Residence, Oxfordshire
Just outside the Cotswolds and a little over 20 minutes by car from the centre of Oxford, this edition of the Artist Residence group has made its home in a 16th-century inn. There are bedrooms in the main house, as well as a shepherd’s hut and converted barns and stables for anyone in search of more unusual accommodation.
For something both cosy and spacious, book one of the Stable Suites, which have a roll-top bath beside the fireplace, or a Barn Suite, with freestanding bath tubs, four-poster beds and log-burners. The hotel’s restaurant, the Mason Arms, is the perfect village pub, with good beer, fireplaces and a menu of hearty dishes, as well as plenty of artworks, of course.
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Cara is Commissioning Editor at Country Living, covering everything from style and interiors to sustainability, artisans and the great outdoors. She has previously worked for Good Housekeeping, Homes & Gardens, House Beautiful, Prima and Red, and has an MA in Magazine Journalism from City University and a BA in Music from the University of Oxford. Follow Cara on Instagram @caralaskaris or Linkedin.
